Battery Supply…

Forum Power supplies Battery Supply…

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    • #1668
      multiblitz
      Participant

      Hi Andrea,

       

      Can you please share some documentation how to build the 4 pole connection cable correctly ? So, which pole has which voltage and which Ground so the connection between the psu board and the main power board is correctly… on both ends ?

       

      for the three pole 9V fifo voltage connector please the same…which of the poles should be used for what (as the other end has only two poles)?

      i am in the finalizing phase…batteries are in the house…so cable building next…

       

      thx a lot

      Frank

    • #1670
      The Well Audio
      Participant

      Attached a few pictures about TWRPS-pp, TWRPS-LBS-P and TWSAFB-LT FIFO Lite connections.

      TWRPS-pp has Kelvin connection (Force and Sense), but one can install a pair of jumpers if the above connection is not necessary (as in the attached picture).

      TWRPS-LBS-P has standard positive and negative connections as in the attached picture.

      TWSAFB-LT has standard positive and negative connections as in the attached picture.

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    • #1674
      multiblitz
      Participant

      Thanks…but what about the 4pole between LBS-P and LBS-M ? can you make a drawing which pin stands for what as there are two lines of power, one high current, one continous power as i understood the manual ?

    • #1676
      The Well Audio
      Participant

      Attached a couple of pictures which explains the connections between the TWRPS-LBS-P and the TWRPS-LBS-M.

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    • #1729
      multiblitz
      Participant

      Thanks a lot…I was just wondering about the 3.3V vs 6.6V options as I am now soldering the batteries…: Are both voltages possible for the fifo / dac ? Or only 3.3V ?

    • #1730
      The Well Audio
      Participant

      Thanks a lot…I was just wondering about the 3.3V vs 6.6V options as I am now soldering the batteries…: Are both voltages possible for the fifo / dac ? Or only 3.3V ?

      3V3 only.
      Max voltage for the Master clock section of the FIFO Lite and for +/-VD and +/-Vref of the DAC Lite is 5V.

    • #1895
      multiblitz
      Participant

      Finally I assembled everything.

       

      So, first power on…only the main switch of the charging psu is on…the switch on the actual battery board is open…:

      – three slow blinks …battery fault…means what ???
      – when I switch the switch on the battery board on (it not a push button, but a normal toggle switch)…led starts to blink fast 9-10 times and than goes back to slow three times blinking.

      So, before I now try to set the charging current etc…what does battery fault mean ? Is this expected behavior ? I dont have a load on the battery supply right now as I want first to see it giving me the right voltages before I connect it to anything.

    • #1896
      multiblitz
      Participant

      Correction…i forgot to out the little switches in the board to “on”…now the led is slowly going on and off…simulating my heart beat…

       

      When those switches have been off, all rails where zero voltage except the 13.3V rail, that had output voltage ?

    • #1899
      The Well Audio
      Participant

      Please, take a look at the user manual (pages 9-10) for the LED status indicator.

    • #1906
      multiblitz
      Participant

      I rechecked and it seems that relais are clicking, voltages are there in battery mode, but the continous voltage for the clocks when battery mode is off is gone.

    • #1905
      multiblitz
      Participant

      Thanks…sorry to bother you again, but my eyes are not that good anymore and I managed it to produce a flash again…

      …when cutting leads on the back of the main battery board to have a short when my cutting tool cut a battery lead and made contact with a relais…

      result: no more 12V to make the relais work and no more standby voltages for the clock…so I melted down the 12V reg I guess.

      If there is a schematic or any advise which parts to exchange…that would be extremely helpful.

    • #1910
      The Well Audio
      Participant

      There are no regulator on the standby voltages line for the clock.

      Please, check the voltage between pins 1 and 2 of J4 connector on the TWRPS-LBS-P.
      You should measure around 15VDC.

    • #1915
      multiblitz
      Participant

      Yes, I got 18.8V on the one and 8.8V on the other connector…both unloaded…

       

      I made the contact/flash/short in the middle of the board where I can only see relais and some diodes … so maybe something which switches between battery supply and constant supply is destroyed ? In battery mode I do have the voltage, it is only the issue when switching battery off…

    • #1921
      The Well Audio
      Participant

      Are you sure you that the LED status indicator is blinking three times and pausing?
      This indicates battery fault condition, overvoltage or undervoltage.

      Otherwise if the LED status indicator is blinking four times and pausing indicates current overload condition (probably a short circuit).

      You could measure the voltage on C108 with a DMM (positive leg), you should measure around 13V.
      If there is 0V you could measure the voltage on the two terminals of R7 versus ground to understand if there is a shutdown condition due to current overload.
      You should measure around 0V on both terminals, otherwise current overload condition occur.
      Finally you could check R40 and R41, they are protection resistors which burn in case of persisting short circuit.

    • #1923
      multiblitz
      Participant

      I am happy to do all those measurements, but just to avoid confusion:

      The three blinking LEDs are no longer the issue. That is solved. The reason for them to blink was that I did not put the little on-off switches soldered on the board to avoid long-term-discharging into “on” state when I powered up the first time. When putting those switches to “on” no blinking anymore.

       

      The current issue is:

      Everything works as intended, no LED-error codes etc. But when I power off (the battery board, not the powersupply board), there is no voltage on the clock-voltage (16V) rail anymore.

      My suspicion is that either the relais or its electronic responsible for switching from battery supply to regulator supply do not work anymore or something on the path of the 18V voltage from the power supply board to the 16.6V output of the battery board is broken.

      So, this mechanimn for having the clocks always powered on (even when batteries are switched off)is broken.

       

    • #1928
      The Well Audio
      Participant

      Ok, so please make the measurements I have listed above in order to understand if the 12V regulator is broken or in shutdown condition.

      Thank you

    • #1932
      multiblitz
      Participant

      You could measure the voltage on C108 with a DMM (positive leg), you should measure around 13V.
      If there is 0V you could measure the voltage on the two terminals of R7 versus ground to understand if there is a shutdown condition due to current overload.
      You should measure around 0V on both terminals, otherwise current overload condition occur.
      Finally you could check R40 and R41, they are protection resistors which burn in case of persisting short circuit.

       

      C108 has 13.5 V when the Power switch of the power board is on and the battery board switch is off. I got around 100mV on both ends of R7. R40/41 measures about 1ohm

       

       

    • #1938
      The Well Audio
      Participant

      So the regulator is working.
      Please measure the voltage on pin 7 of K4 versus ground (the one connected to R40) with battery off.
      You should measure 12-13VDC.
      If so, please measure the voltage on J5, always with battery off.
      You should measure the same 12-13VDC as above.

    • #1940
      multiblitz
      Participant

      Yes, I got both with 13.5V…

      but when I switch on battery, I have a voltage only of 1.2V on J5.

    • #1941
      The Well Audio
      Participant

      So the XO backup power supply works correctly.

      Please, measure the voltage on J4 with battery on.
      You should measure 16V5.
      J5 is in parallel with J4 when batteries are on, so you should measure the same 16V5 on J5.

      Otherwise the relay K4 does not work.

    • #1946
      multiblitz
      Participant

      battery on

      – j4 16.5 V

      -j5 1,2V

    • #1947
      The Well Audio
      Participant

      So it looks like K4 is broken.
      Can you hear the click when you switch the battery on and off?

    • #1948
      multiblitz
      Participant

      Well, is there anything else we can check ? LIke power supply for the relais ? Or exchange the relais?

    • #1949
      The Well Audio
      Participant

      The power supply of the coil of K4 are pins 1 and 8 (close to J5).

      It should toggle between V and 0 when switching the batteries on and off.

    • #1961
      multiblitz
      Participant

      There is no change when I switch battery part on: Its always 0V (measured between the two pins 1-8 you mentioned)

      • This reply was modified 1 week, 4 days ago by multiblitz.
      • This reply was modified 1 week, 4 days ago by multiblitz.
    • #1970
      multiblitz
      Participant

      When I measure against ground, I have 12V when powering battery on and 16.8V when powering battery off on both pins.

    • #1972
      The Well Audio
      Participant

      So I believe the relay K4 is broken.
      Firstly you could replace R40 and R41 (Mouser part number is CRM2512-FX-1R00ELF).
      And then if it doesn’t work you can replace K4 (Mouser part number is G2RL2-DC12).

    • #1974
      multiblitz
      Participant

      I exchanged all of that…but nope. that was not it.

       

      when I look at the pcb, i see around k4:

      q6 and d9 which directly seem to have a function to provide the 12V for the k4 to work, no ?

      not sure what the relais next to k4 does…

       

      but that has well q4, q5, d8

       

      I exchanged that relais as well just to be sure…

       

      So, i guess exchanging those transistors/regs/diodes is the next step if you can provide the part number.

    • #1976
      The Well Audio
      Participant

      D9 is the part US1K-13-F (Mouser part 621-US1K-F), Q6 is the part MMBT5401 (Mouser part 637-MMBT5401).
      Q4, Q5 and D8 are the same parts as above.

    • #1982
      multiblitz
      Participant

      I have exchanged them…nope. Still 1.2V when battery is on and 13.6V when battery is off on XO (J5). So, whats next upstream ?

    • #1984
      The Well Audio
      Participant

      With battery on please measure the voltage between pins 4 and 5 of K4 (external pins close to D8 and to the coil pins of K3_1). You should read 16V5.

    • #1985
      multiblitz
      Participant

      yes, i got this 16.5V on those pins.

    • #1986
      The Well Audio
      Participant

      Is W7 jumper installed?

    • #1988
      multiblitz
      Participant

      Yes, it came installed with that one from you

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